Carnia and Gemona’s area offer climbers a multitude of itineraries that range from calcareous plaques to the cliffs of conglomerate.
We have selected the most representative sites of this area with the hope that everyone can find the itinerary able to give him genuine emotions. It ranges from the walls for experts that alternates shots of resistance to technical trails with cliffs for families and beginners.
The cliffs are never too crowded and their location, surrounded by forests of beech, give the climber a mix of emotions between stillness and exciting climbs.
Located close to the town, a few steps from the Cathedral, are the most interesting pole of climbing of the Alps. They are divided into different areas, each of which has different characteristics, so as to meet the various demands of the free-climber.
Educational sector- Gemona
The educational sector is surrounded by natural vegetation at the base of the edge of the Glemine, and is the ideal place where you can approach to climbing for both children and beginners.
The height contained within a dozen yards, the wall full of holds, the excellent equipment of the paths, are the characteristics that indicate that is an ideal place for the performance of basic climbing courses.
The vertical yellow wall visible from the churchyard of the cathedral was climbed for the first time by Marcello Bulfoni in the 70s and therefore bears his name.
Now on this wall there are several lines of climbing, rock climbing requires continuity of small nicks and very technical movements, the level goes from 6a to 7a.
Plates – Gemona
This is the most popular cliff of Gemona. The plates slightly supported offer movements of grip and balance, the difficulty is medium, up to 5c, and the nailing is excellent.
The exposure to the west of the wall and the microclimate of the place suggests climbing in spring and autumn afternoons or in the mornings of the hot sunny days.
Cliffs – Gemona
The most difficult sector is the biggest black cliff of Gemona which is situated at the base of Mount Glemine. While the top climbers try and try again harder routes up 8c, in the areas of left and right different routes of a good standard, from 6a to 7b, can also be addressed by well-trained climbers.
They are elegant lines, a vertical gray limestone, small holds and grip, movements refined, material for experts!
The church of San Michele dei Pagani, with its characteristical red color, is embedded in the wall of rock, which seems to protect it under its cliff. It can be reached within a few minutes walk from Braulins and it can climb on the walls next to the church and other areas nearby. The cliff is particularly popular in the winter months, favored by ideal microclimate in that period.
San Michele – Trasaghis
The walls next to the church of San Michele consist of a yellow and gray conglomerate, with grips of natural holes and blocks. The routes on the right cross a strong cliff, and for this reason is required strenght and great resistance, on the left hand the wall is higher and less outstanding, its dominated by the technical movement and continuity.
Grigiotti – Trasaghis
This area is less known and more isolated and it consists of two walls, one is a yellow conglomerate, high and overhung, with its characteristic similar to the cliffs of San Michele. The other one is a vertical and gray limestone, hence the name of the cliff, and is highly appreciated for the fine movements of the climb, where the use of force must be combined with excellent technical skill.
A fascinating cave of conglomerate is dipped in the gorge Cjanevade, this is the Cavazzo’s cliff, which, thanks to the steep terrain and to the shape of the rock, is the ideal place for lovers of explosive climbings, and the term “resistance-force” summarizes perfectly the type of climbing .
Difficulties of the cliff: shots from the 6a to the 8a.
SOMPLAGO – Cavazzo
In a quiet and sunny location rises this conglomerate wall that offers a variety of routes up to 8th grade. The Church of San Candido and the stream that crosses the base form the backdrop to this place of climbing. Ideal for families with children.
Cliff for everyone: shots from 4c to 8a
The White Wall – Cavazzo
The wall of conglomerate white and impressive stands out among the trees, giving to the climber a spectacular variety of interpretations for each itinerary: in fact, only the line of the spit indicates the track, the rest of it is the result of the skill of the climber who will be free to draw “his” line of ascent.
Average difficulty of the cliff: shots from 5c to 7c
Slight overhang, holes and micro traces, technical climbing where “fingers” and resistance can not miss. The streets are all challenging and of course the wall will leave you “breathless” for its incredible continuity.
Difficulty of the cliff: shots from 7a to 8b
CHURCH– Villa Santina
A few minutes from the small church of Saint Anthony in Villa Santina is situated the climbing wall that with its homogeneous shots in difficulties offer to the climber slightly overhanging climbing on a vertical limestone. Grades should not be underestimated and every shot will give a hard time, but this should not discourage those who wish to spend a pleasant day surrounded by nature and peace.
MASSO DELL’INCENERITORE – Villa Santina
Like a meteorite fallen from the sky that is how this boulder that seems to fell from above to offer its four sides to the most fussy climbers.
The incinerator boulder or Sasso Bonsai is one of the smaller cliffs in the area, but his particular position, the difficulties and the type of climbing make this place a place to visit.
The shoots have an average length of 12-15 meters, but nevertheless they are an exploit of technique and strength: three parts of the four sides in fact are slightly steeper and all notches contribute to a very challenging climb and the forest gives the right peace in order to alternate the moments of rest with the those of grit.
Medium-difficulty of the cliff: shots from 5c to 8a
MADRABAU – Villa Santina
This is certainly one of the most historic cliffs of the area with its routes on the limestone who can give unforgettable days especially from October to March, the southern exposure allows you to climb in short sleeves also in the harsh winter days.
Medium difficulty of the cliff: shots from 5c to 8a
CUEL DI NUVOLAE – RAVEO
Is one of the most popular cliffs in the area for those who climb, on the 6a-7a grades.
The wall of limestone developes about twenty shots that all people must try. It requires good technical skills and sought movements on plaque. It’s a cliff that it shoudn’t be missed and it gives a lot of satisfaction to all lovers of the plaque.
Medium difficulty of the cliff: shots from 5c to 7a
PILASTRO BONAN – RAVEO
Not far from Raveo Cuel of Nuvuolae at the end of a pleasant path through the beech forest you can find the Pillar Of Bonan cliff.
All shots are made of a difficulty higher than 7a and they are real masterpieces and require good technique and strength.
Difficulty of the cliff: shots from 6c to 8a
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